DAY 21, LLORET DE MAR DAY ONE ARRIVED FROM FIGURES

A very short drive today down to the coast. We found the somewhat grandly named Roger de Flor high on a hill above town. Looks nice and the receptionist was most helpful and told us we had a lovely room on the 6^th floor. Okay and where are the elevators? Oh no elevators! Jane looked at him aghast, en serio? Oh it is okay we are on the 4^th floor here! It is okay I will help you, nevertheless we have a lot of stairs to climb! He deposited us in our huge attic room with a beautiful view of the Mediterranean. The bathroom and shower are down four steps but the Jacuzzi is in the corner on the opposite side of this huge room and in the other corner are two sofas! I hope I do not have to get up in the middle of the night to go to the bathroom!

There are three buses in the parking lot, a bunch of teenagers milling around and a Taekwondo group practicing out by the pool. Their enthusiasm is a bit muted! The Sensei is not exactly inspiring as he calls commands from his chair. I bet breakfast will be interesting!

Turns out that the city run parking lot next to the beach is a bargain, we ventured forth for lunch fare, we settled on a pizzeria  right next to the beach that offered seafood and so we had calamares, almejas, and manchego cheese with draft beers to wash it all down. There are a lot of pizzerias here! After our simple repast we wandered around a bit. Very, very touristy with German, French, British and even some Russians! I think I like Tossa de Mar better. Our beaches are so much better but I do love how the beach and the sea are the focus and for everyone. Of course there are lots of hotels and apartments but across the road and not blocking access to the beach. I believe a siesta is in order! We will be back down for dinner!

We parked again in the city lot next to the beach and walked to the far end via the 2^nd parallel street lined with souvenirs and trinkets for sell. Ultimately we settled on a fresh interesting place that had patrons eating what looked like a great pizza. We went into La Latino resturante and sat down. Rose wine and a  warm salad with scallops, and then separate entrees, Jane a paella and Paul his cannellonis. All was excellent and was washed down with more Rose. Day one completed and we headed back to the Roger de Flor Hotel on the hill above the beach.

DAY 20, OCT 26^TH WEDNESDAY, DAY 2 FIGUERES:

Partly sunny at daybreak going up to 77F today. The day actually began at 0545 with the blaring fire alarm! We opened our door and found a few people sticking their heads out and one family had their shoes on with their pjs! There was  no announcement or anything and after just 2 minutes of the screaming alarm it suddenly was quiet and everyone returned to slumber again. Paul asked the front desk as we entered for breakfast and was told that the setup crew for breakfast had caught a piece of bread in the toaster setting off the alarm throughout the hotel.

We arrived at the Dali Museum at the appointed 1030 timeslot to retrieve our tickets and enter without a line. By 1100 AM the place was full to capacity. There were 16 different numbered stopping points throughout with explanations and description of the works. Dali really was a master of angles and depth perception. The central hall had a huge painting at least 40 ft tall. Another in that hall looked to be layered blocks of different objects when viewed as a whole was a man’s head, was it Abe Lincoln? Another in the same hall looked like random blotches but also as an outline of a man’s head, JFK perhaps?? Just outside the soaring central hall is a courtyard with a 47 Caddy taking pride of place!

 It is called the Dali Theater/Museum because it occupies the site of the original theater which was destroyed during the civil war. Dali was born just down the street and his church is also close by. He felt it was the perfect place for his legacy and it is. It is not stuffy and straight laced, it is alive and fun and a terrific experience. So glad we came to see this.

We even went through the Jewelry collection as Dali like so many painters did not restrict himself to just painting but did jewelry designs as well.

We refreshed and then wandered about the streets looking to purchase typical fan for Jane’s hairdresser friend. Two shops later and many lengthy conversations with shop keepers we had the perfect fan and carry box with a protective velvet sleeve, too. Mission completed we next looked for our lunch place. Paul had spotted another Lizarran for his lunch and so we found a table and ordered. The chef treated Paul’s request with indifference so that his al punto steak arrived very well overdone. It was returned for another attempt. After another lengthy wait the steak returned properly cooked this time, however same French fries and vegetables accompanied the steaming new steak but they were stone cold. Paul said nothing to our waiter but complained to Jane. Ultimately the server noticed that Paul was finished but that he had not touched the potatoes or veggies, he explained that they were in fact the original set having been dispatched on the same plate. She said that he should have spoken up. As it was she took half the steak price off of the bill and apologized profusely. Paul told her that the Cook just had a BAD day.

On the way back for siesta time, Paul found a shoe shop holding a sale, a pair of little girls golden sneakers in MacKenzie size for just 11 euros. So cute.

 After siesta we set off to visit the same eating establishment as our first night because it was so good, Paul said it was all downhill  so we would eat and take a return taxi back up the hill to the hotel. Well the best laid plans of mice and men. We found a restaurante not two blocks from the hotel on our way into town with dark wood trim and lights that reminded us of Café Iruna Pamplona where Hemingway hung out. The food was good and Paul had another rabbit. In fact he mentioned that he has had more rabbit than we have seen bulls along the highway on this trip, he is now up to 4 rabbits.

Early night and off we went. Travel day tomorrow down to the Med and coast.

DAY 19 TRAVEL DAY from TORTOSSA UP THE COAST/INLAND TO FIGUERES (DALI Birthplace)

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•   NOTE TO ALL CONCERNED. As is the wonder of technology the Blog page for Day 19 was duly created but lost somewhere between our netbook and the internet/Ethernet.

Dali Museum Nighttime Figuere Spain

• It was really an uneventful day of constant rain, wipers swiping back forth, just as well we   were inside a car and not out under an umbrella. We had started out on the N-340 but soon found that traffic was heaviest on the “free” road and so Paul took to the Peaje road at just 10.75€ and 6.25€ it was money well spent.
  

DAY 18, Parador Tortosa DAY 2 24 October 2016

A bit overcast and damp today but supposed to be sunny and mid 70s. Paul said he wanted to go to Miravet where there is a castle from the last days of the Knights Templar. It stands on a hill overlooking the Ebro and was in a tremendous defensive position. I am sure I have told you before but it bears repeating. They were the warrior monks who helped free Jerusalem and received great rewards in return. They became the guardians of pilgrims and as pilgrimage was big business back then, they also became in effect the first bankers. People of high rank would not carry money for fear of bandits so the Knights Templar would give letters of credit and so an early international banking system began. They became very rich and powerful and this did not sit well with Kings or Popes. They were brought down brutally by torture and violence but it is said their fortune was never found! It is a fascinating story and the castles and fortresses they built are magnificent. That is a thumbnail sketch from memory so you had better google it for the details! Anyway this castle at Miravet was one of the last to fall and we were eager to take a look at it.

As we turned off the C-23 highway Paul spotted a beautiful at the first little town so a quick U turn brought us to the Cathedral of Vino in El Pinell de Brai. We stopped for a coffee and chat with the manager who assured us that the castle is open every day as is the Bodega. We assured him we would be back after the castle and sallied forth!

It was about 10-15 kilometres away, but we know no boundaries! We climbed and turned and made it up to the top and guess what?...... It was closed. It is Monday, so, it is closed and all chained up!! Damn, damn, damn! It is in a great position way up high overlooking the Ebro. It is most imposing and said to be in great shape but we will never know!

We returned to the Bodega and chastised the manger who was suitably incensed because he got his information from the castle people! So we took the tour. I have to say this was one of the best bodega tours we have ever taken. You follow the numbers on the floor and at each stopping point there is a full description. Pagos de Hibera was built in 1922 by Cesar Martinelli, a disciple of Antoni Gaudi and is quite magnificent. Its construction is in the Modernist/Catalan Art Nouveau style. It is said to be an architectural gem of the early 20^th century. It is formed by a nave with 46 cement tanks of 30,000 litres each and 25 underground tanks which at one time could hold 2.5 million liters! Dang! There is also another nave with an artesan oil mill. You go through the tour and then watch a couple of short movies which explain how it came about in an effort to bring a sustainable life to the area. Other bodegas were buying up the grapes for next to nothing and people were starving in spite of their hard work. They were encouraged to join together in a cooperative and steer and rule their own lives. It took a while but it worked. It is a self guided audio tour and seriously, it was terrific. There is a smell test in the tunnel of aromas which I have never seen before and found really interesting. You could even sync it for the movie. Now, we speak Spanish but there really is something about getting the whole thing and not missing out on those words you don’t get and agonize over! Wine tasting followed with a bit of bread and cheese and all this for 6 Euros apiece! What a deal.

Apparently there is only one restaurant in town as the bodega only serves food on weekends. So off we trek to find Restaurante Angel, up the hill, there always a hill involved, and stairs, two flights in fact! We had an excellent meal, rabbit (again) for Paul and he says I had sausage but I know I had more than that. That is the trouble with playing catch up on the blogs, you leave it too long and you forget!

We went in to town to try and visit the Cathedral. Tortosa is a strangely dark and foreboding place. It seems very muddled and disjointed. We followed directions and parked in an underground parking lot and the followed the signs. Usually at this time of the evening there are people out walking and mingling, but there was none of this here. We really did not even come upon a Plaza where the children play. It was very gothic and claustrophobic. I really did not feel safe or comfortable. Never felt that before in Spain and they do say you should follow your instincts. We finally found the Cathedral but access was very restricted as there was a mass so we decided to cut our losses, retrieve the car and returned to the Parador. This is one cathedral that has not been renovated, at least externally, which is very odd, but this is Cataluna and they do things differently here!

After drinkies at the hotel, where we met 3 Americans, a Scotsman and a Spaniard, we headed back down the winding road to Lizarran, the restaurant of pinchos which we found initially in Valencia and later in Alcala. It was good. We didn’t need too much as our meal in El Pinell was substantial.

And so to bed, another busy day. I have very mixed feelings about this part of the world. I will ponder on it and let you know what I think. As ww recall when here with Ron & Sandy on the 2004 Maria Wedding Trip we stayed entirely at the Parador and did NOT venture into town: Ron & Sandy trust us you did NOT miss anything worth remembering!!!!!

DAY 17, Parador Alcaniz to Parador Tortosa 23 October 2016:

Only a very short drive today. The day dawned bright and clear and we are ready to load up and head out….after a substantial breakfast of course to give strength! Carmen got us out of town safely and we headed for Tortosa.  We forgot to mention that on the way into Alcaniz (just 10K outside of Lleida) we passed a farm with lots of donkeys and….camels! Seriously….camels. Now why they have so many camels here we have no idea but they seemed content! Paul did a quick u turn and we went back for Kodak moment! There were some camels, behind a wall, and all we saw were their humps but one has to assume they too, were camels! One of life’s little mysteries.

We approached Tortosa from the northwest and decided to stop and explore Aldover, for no reason other than we needed refreshment and a potty stop! Strange little town, but lots of people sitting outside drinking coffee and beer. Via Verdes are very prevalent here. They are paths through the countryside for walking or cycling. Nice I think. They are very health conscious, especially the young people who you see out running and biking and walking regularly. Paul was shooed away from his first choice parking as it was on the Via Verde! We complied.

Getting into the Parador was a little more complex as the first bridge was one way due to repair work and no one had told Carmen so she was totally at a loss! We eventually figured it out by heading for the town center and crossing at the next bridge down. We are talking about the mighty Rio Ebro here. Spain’s rivers are often trickles of water, unless they have a downpour, but the Ebro is fabulous. It is the second largest in Spain and flows through many Provinces, Aragon, Zaragoza, La Rioja, Cataluna to name a few. This path led us past a park with lots of outdoor tables and people eating lunch! You know what we are going to do? Eat lunch! After a sumptuous repast we piled into the car and stopped at the first ATM to replenish the coffers. “ Sorry transaction not authorized. Contact your bank”! Excuse me? I remember calling SCCU myself! What gives? We tried at a couple more… no deal. Eventually I used my USAA card and that worked just fine. We will check on this later.

We drove up, what seems to be a standard road for castles on hills……steep, narrow with arched gates and big stone walls! Paul handles it with great aplomb! Nothing fazes this guy! I head into reception with a bit of trepidation; there are stairs everywhere and no ramps. I cannot believe that they have not updated this since we were last here, don’t they have the equivalent of the ADA here? In years past, they had a portero who would help you, but I guess times are tough and there have been many cutbacks. The receptionist directed us to a different parking lot and said she would help.!

It is a beautiful suite! A 12^th century castle with a lovely suite and balcony. Just lovely, I will forgive them for the lack of porters! It is my birthday and I am not heaving suitcases anywhere! There is a lovely view right down the Ebro and the sun has made it into a ribbon of silver! Lots of people come up here just to walk around the walls and admire.

We decide to eat at the Parador as a special treat. I am not up for trying to find a restaurant in town, and the Parador restaurants are gorgeous. Just put your mind in an ancient castle with a beautiful dining room with silver and crystal and beautiful chandeliers. Sigh!.. We dressed for dinner and by that I mean I dressed in lace and gold necklace and Paul took his vest off! It was super and all a girl could ask for on her 70^th birthday. I love Spain and castles in Spain! Paul says I have to tell you what we had. I had this awesome starter of mil hojas {flaky pastry like a vol au vont} filled with caramelized onions, mushrooms and pate. Mmmmm! and salmon, Paul had chickpeas with cod, spinach and chorizo and roasted lamb shank, which he tells me, fell off the bone. It was a lovely birthday and the Rose wine divine!